Chapter 1

About Crochet

To set crochet apart from the rest of the sewing crowd, we’ll make some distinctions:
      
Crocheting is a type of lace needlework that involves interlocking loops of a single thread, using a hooked needle.

Knitting is looping yarn or thread together by hand with long needles or by machinery which forms similar interlocking loops.

Sewing is working with a needle and thread to fasten stitches.

Quilting is stitching with lines or patterns through layers of cloth. It is usually employed in making bed covers and wall decorations.

Embroidering is making raised and ornamental designs on cloth, leather, etc with the use of a needle.

How crochet further stands out from these other forms will become apparent as we discuss its dynamics for producing fabric and its numerous by-products.

History of Crochet

A writer who tried to trace the history of crochet came to the conclusion that there is no real evidence to show the existence of crochet before the 19th century. Knitting, she said, preceded crochet by at least four centuries.

Why crochet did not show up until the 19th century could probably be explained by the fact that people at the time preferred more economical fabric-creating techniques. Crochet uses an enormous amount of thread to produce pieces of fabric which were much more economically produced by the ancient techniques of netting, sprang, nalbinding or knitting.

It was while Ireland was developing its lace industry that the US took up crocheting. It soon became a household activity that was loved by many American settlers.

While sewing was considered a function, crochet was entertainment. When America went to World War II in 1941, there was no such thing as time and innovation for fashion, so the idea was to make it “short and sweet.”  Crochet was therefore saved for special things like a touch of lace, a scarf or a friendly.

When the war ended, crochet was back in the limelight and women turned it into a hobby to create luxuries they desired:  tablecloths, edgings for pillowcases, handkerchiefs and towels.

After the 1960’s crochet was no longer a “domesticated” activity; the generations that followed transformed the craft into something more ambitious and non-traditional. All of a sudden, all kinds of finished fabrics were arriving at the scene, manifestations of the innovation fever that characterized the wealthy period that the US was experiencing. Since this time, 21st century crochet has had a different face, a new look. New types of hooks were born, and yarns multiplied in variety.

To take up crochet, it is important to know the basics which cover:

1. Commonly used abbreviations
   
   
2. Stitches
   
   
3. Kinds of hooks
   
   
4. Kinds of Yarns

Knowing the basics will enable you to come up with simple projects for you and your home. In fact, there are multiple projects you can create just by knowing the basics.

However, as you gain more confidence, chances are you’ll want to learn advanced techniques so you can diversify your project portfolio. Who knows, you may want to make a living out of crochet. Your finished products will be selling so quickly that your hands and fingers will be feverishly moving about just to keep up with demand!

Language of Crochet

Let’s begin with the more common abbreviations used in crocheting:

ch st      chain stitch
dc          double crochet
hdc        half-double crochet
sc           single crochet
sl st       slip stitch
trc          triple crochet
yo          yarn over
tr           treble crochet
sp          space
sk          skip
pat st     pattern stitch

There are other abbreviations you will use, but as a beginner in crochet, these are the most basic abbreviations you will need to memorize.

Before we go into the basic stitches, we’ll mention the foundation chain, a key term in crocheting. Just as a house needs a solid foundation, crocheting needs a foundation as well. The foundation chain is defined as a cross-stitched row that serves as the base of your crocheting. It holds all your stitches and all the succeeding rows you will make.

Basic Stitches

Single Crochet – this is the first of the basic stitches. It is the shortest stitch and results in a firm, flat product. To make a single crochet, make sure the front side of the chain is facing you, then insert the hook through a chain, yarn over, pull the loop through the chain, yarn over again, and pull through both loops on the hook.

Double Crochet – as in single crochet, pass the hook from the front to the back of the work through the upper loop of a stitch of the previous row. The thread is caught on the hook and drawn through this loop.

Half-Double Crochet – a cross between a single crochet and a double crochet stitch. Begin with a yarn over, insert the hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch; do another yarn over and pull through the three loops on your hook.

Triple Crochet – the last of the basic stitches and also the tallest. To make a triple crochet, yarn over the hook twice; insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over again and pull through the first of two loops (the two closest to the end point); yarn over again and pull through the next two loops. Yarn over one last time and pull through the remaining two loops.

Crochet Hooks

Hooks come in various sizes, shapes and the material they’re made of. There are also the small steel hooks which are used with very fine cotton yarns. Aluminum and steel hooks sometimes are manufactured with plastic handles for a better grip (called “soft touch” handles). These plastic handles also put less pressure on the fingers. One thing to be cautious about is that there appear to be no standard hook sizes among manufacturers. The points and throats of different brands of hooks come in different shapes and these shapes affect the size of stitch they produce.

Parts of a Hook:  a crochet hook is made up of four parts – point, throat, thumb rest and shank. The point goes into the stitch on the crocheted fabric; the throat catches the yarn. Note that the throat has to be sized accordingly in proportion to the yarn being used.

The shank holds the loops that you’re working with, and is the part of the hook that determines stitch size. Finally, the thumb rest is an area where you rest your thumb to help you turn the hook easily while working.

Going from smallest to largest, aluminum or plastic hooks go from size B to Q – 2.50 mm to 15.00 mm (US), and size 14 to 2 – 2.00 mm to 7.00 mm (British). One good thing to bear in mind is that the size of your yarn dictates your hook size.

Crochet Yarns

There is a slight confusion regarding yarn sizes, but don’t let that discourage you. One system classifies yarn into five categories based on the approximate diameter of the yarn:

Size A – light or fine weight yarns. Ideal for thin socks and light baby clothes.

Size B – sport or medium-weight yarns. Good for indoor sweaters, baby things, dresses and suits.

Size C – worsted weight or knitting yarns – good for outdoor sweaters, hats, mittens, afghans and slippers.

Size D – bulky yarns – ideal for rugs, heavy jackets and crafts,

Size E – extra bulky – mostly used for rugs.

The other system classifies yarn based on the number of stitches per 4-inch swatch of knitting stockinette stitch:

1. Fine = 29-32 sts
   
   
2. Light = 25-28 sts
   
   
3. Medium = 21-24 sts
   
   
4. Medium-heavy = 17-20 sts
   
   
5. Bulky = 13-16 sts
   
   
6. Extra-Bulky = 9-12 sts

Pay special attention to gauge, an indispensable component of crochet. It can make or break your project. Correct size of the project depends on gauge. Gauge depends on the hook size, yarn size and the mood you’re in that day.

When working with a pattern, the hook size is usually recommended, although you can choose to work more tightly or loosely than what the pattern suggests, but you need to work at exactly the gauge the pattern requires in order to reproduce the work accurately.

Gauge has two parts:  stitch gauge and row gauge. Stitch gauge is the number of stitches in a given length of a row; row gauge is the height of the number of rows. Don’t be tempted to skip the gauge swatch. Keep making swatches until your stitch gauge is correct; if you need to change hooks to make the right gauge, do so.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...